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Joanine Library: A Historical Gem in Coimbra, Portugal

11/9/2024

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Located on the grounds of the University of Coimbra, one of Portugal’s most prestigious educational institutions, the Joanine Library is a marvel that transports visitors back in time. This baroque masterpiece is more than just a place to house books—it's a living testament to the intellectual and artistic pursuits of the past, making it one of the most extraordinary libraries in Europe.
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**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**

Historical Gem

The Joanine Library, or Biblioteca Joanina, was commissioned by King João V in 1717 during a period when Portugal was flourishing from its wealth brought by gold and diamonds from Brazil. Named in honor of the king, the library stands as a symbol of his support for the arts and sciences. The library officially opened its doors in 1728, and since then, it has become a beacon of knowledge, holding over 60,000 volumes that span centuries of human thought and achievement.
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One of the most remarkable features of the Joanine Library is its connection to the Age of Enlightenment. The library’s collections emphasize the era's values of intellectual expansion, scientific exploration, and artistic excellence, making it an integral piece of European cultural history.
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Architectural Beauty

The Joanine Library is as much an architectural wonder as it is a literary one. Its elaborate baroque design is breathtaking, with gilded woodwork, intricate frescoes, and soaring ceilings that inspire awe. The library is divided into three grand rooms, each adorned with painted ceilings and walls lined with exquisitely carved tropical wood bookshelves.

The design of the library itself is a reflection of the high regard for knowledge during the 18th century. The gilded detailing, combined with the rich colors and masterful use of natural light, creates an atmosphere of reverence—reminding visitors that they are in the presence of something sacred: the wisdom of the ages. Above the shelves, portraits of great thinkers and scholars look down, as if overseeing the learning and research that have taken place here for centuries.
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Rare Collections

​Within these ornately designed walls lies one of the most significant collections of rare and ancient books in the world. The Joanine Library houses works dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries, covering a wide range of subjects from law and medicine to theology and geography.
Among the treasures held in the Joanine Library are first editions of scientific works that revolutionized the fields of astronomy and natural sciences, rare manuscripts that reflect Portugal's rich maritime history, and volumes of classical literature. These collections serve as a window into the scholarly pursuits of the past and stand as a testament to the enduring value of knowledge.
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Special care is taken to preserve these priceless books, ensuring that future generations will continue to have access to them. Each book is treated with meticulous care to prevent damage from light, temperature fluctuations, and the passage of time.
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Photo Courtesy of University of Coimbra
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Photo Courtesy of University of Coimbra

Bat Guardians

​The Joanine Library holds a unique distinction - it's one of only two libraries in the world, alongside the Mafra Palace Library - is its unlikely guardians: bats. Yes, you read that right, bats. ​
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Mafra Palace Library
Every evening, a colony of bats emerges from their roosts within the library’s ceiling, flying through the grand halls. But far from being pests, these bats play a crucial role in preserving the library's precious books.

The bats act as natural pest control, feasting on the insects that could otherwise damage the ancient manuscripts. To accommodate their nocturnal activities, the library’s caretakers cover the tables with protective leather sheets every night, ensuring that no droppings sully the reading surfaces.

While the presence of bats may seem unusual, it highlights the deep care and unique methods that have been adopted to safeguard the library’s collections. These tiny winged creatures have been faithfully performing their duties for generations, adding an unexpected layer to the Joanine Library's already rich history.
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Visiting the Joanine Library is a must for anyone traveling to Coimbra. The library is part of the university's general ticket, which grants access to several historic sites on campus. Tickets typically cost around €13-18 for adults, with discounts available for students, seniors, and children. It's recommended to book tickets in advance, especially during the peak tourist season, as the library limits the number of visitors to preserve its delicate environment. Guided tours are also available, offering a deeper insight into the library's history and architecture. Be sure to check the university's website for the most up-to-date information on opening hours and ticket prices before planning your visit.
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Museums at the University of Coimbra, Portugal

2/10/2024

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Coimbra, Portugal, is a city rich in history and culture, offering a variety of museums to explore. 

​For those interested in religious art, the university is home to museums exhibiting sculptures, tapestries, ceramic altarpieces, and religious paintings from the 15th to 19th centuries. ​The university grounds also host other museums and churches, providing a rich cultural experience.
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**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**
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The Biblioteca Joanina, located within the Coimbra University, is an 18th-century baroque library that is considered one of the most beautiful libraries in the world
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In the heart of Portugal's University of Coimbra, the Joanina Library stands as a testament not only to the grandeur of Baroque architecture but also to a unique method of preservation that intertwines nature with cultural heritage. This library, renowned for its beauty and historical significance, harbors a secret that might seem straight out of a gothic novel: a colony of bats that play a crucial role in the conservation of its ancient manuscripts.

A Natural Solution to an Age-Old Problem
The Joanina Library is home to nearly 60,000 volumes, some of which date back to the 15th century. These books are at risk from insect damage, a common threat to libraries worldwide. However, the Joanina Library employs a natural form of pest control: bats. Specifically, colonies of Common pipistrelle bats reside behind the bookshelves, emerging at night to feed on the insects that could otherwise damage the precious manuscripts.

The Bats' Nightly Routine
As nocturnal creatures, these bats do not disturb the library's visitors during the day. Their presence is made known by the protective measures taken by the library staff. Each evening, original 18th-century furniture is covered with animal skins to protect it from bat droppings, and the floors are meticulously cleaned every morning. This routine has been a part of the library's preservation efforts for centuries, with records of the bats' presence dating back to at least the 1800s.

Architectural and Environmental Harmony
The Joanina Library's design reflects a deep understanding of the need to protect its collections not only from insects but also from moisture and temperature fluctuations. The building's thick exterior walls and oak shelves, known for their insect-repellent properties, create an environment that is both physically and biologically fortified against potential damage. The bats, in turn, contribute to this protective environment by keeping the insect population in check, demonstrating a harmonious balance between architectural ingenuity and natural pest control.

A Living Tribute
Despite the challenges of cohabiting with these nocturnal guardians, the library pays homage to their invaluable service. A small glass case displaying the taxidermied remains of three bats serves as a tribute to the creatures that have helped preserve the library's collection for generations. This acknowledgment highlights the respect and appreciation for the bats' role in the library's preservation efforts.
You're not permitted to take photos in the main library (unfortunately), but here are a few from the first area you enter.
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Science and Natural History Museums 

Coimbra is home to the Museu da Ciência da Universidade de Coimbra, which displays historic scientific instruments and a wide range of collections related to anthropology, botany, mineralogy, medicine, and zoology
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These museums offer a rich cultural experience and are among the most popular attractions in Coimbra, showcasing the city's heritage and history.
Cabinet of Curiosities

The University of Coimbra in Portugal is home to the Cabinet of Curiosities, a fascinating collection of objects from various lifestyles over seven centuries. Housed in a science building, this collection includes antique scientific devices and curiosities gathered over the years. Visitors can explore this unique space as part of a combined ticket that also includes the Palace School and Science Museum. The University of Coimbra, one of the oldest in Portugal, offers a rich cultural and historical experience, making it a must-visit for those interested in academia and heritage.

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If you are planning a visit to Coimbra, be sure to include the University and its Cabinet of Curiosities in your itinerary to explore this remarkable collection of objects from different eras and cultures.
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Coimbra's Machado de Castro National Museum

12/11/2021

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The National Museum Machado de Castro, dedicated to Joaquim Machado de Castro, a prominent 18th-century Portuguese sculpture, was inaugurated to the public in 1913.
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**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**
Located in the historic Episcopal Palace of Coimbra, which was constructed atop the ruins of the Roman city Aeminium and has a rich history spanning the Middle Ages and beyond, lies the museum. Among the many remarkable features that have survived to the present day is the cryptoporticus, a magnificent underground building.

Architect Gonçalo Byrne oversaw a total renovation of the museum from 2000 to 2012; in 2014, his outstanding contributions were recognized with the prestigious Rome Prize.
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Architecture

An enthralling synthesis of historical and contemporary architecture, the Machado de Castro National Museum is a must-see. The original structure dates back to the 12th century, when it served as a palace for the Episcopal church. An major repair was place between 2000 and 2012, giving the old building a fresh lease on life.

Contemporary materials like glass and steel blend seamlessly with older masonry. Natural light pours in through the floor-to-ceiling windows, and visitors may see the ancient wonders below on glass pathways. The subterranean Roman cryptoporticus has also been expertly incorporated into the museum's overall design.

If you're looking for the best view of Coimbra, you have to go to the rooftop patio!
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The Roman Cryptoporticus

One of the most striking artifacts on display at the Machado de Castro National Museum is the Roman cryptoporticus. Indeed, it is one of Portugal's most well-preserved historical artifacts.

A cryptoporticus, though, is what? Underpinning buildings built on difficult terrain with a basement or underground gallery is a hallmark of Roman architecture. The ancient Roman city of Aeminium, upon which modern-day Coimbra was built, included a cryptoporticus
Subterranean galleries supported by strong columns and arches make up this cryptoporticus. It was built during the time when the Romans ruled the area, which was in the first half of the first century AD.

The cryptoporticus had several uses throughout the years, but it is most famous for its role as the medieval Episcopal palace's foundation in Coimbra. As a result of recent renovations, guests of the museum can now stroll through these halls of history, stepping back in time.
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The extensive and varied holdings of the National Museum Machado de Castro reveal a beautiful mosaic of art and relics from all over the world and all time periods.
In addition to the cryptoporticus, the museum houses a wealth of Roman relics. The Roman collection is incredibly vast, encompassing sculptures, inscriptions, and everyday things. A fascinating assortment of Roman boat anchors and an enthralling sculpture of Apollo are among the highlights.
Romanesque and Gothic sculptures abound in the museum's collection of mediaeval art. The artistic and religious shifts that Portugal experienced in the Middle Ages are illuminated by these works.
Ceramics, textiles, jewelry, illuminated manuscripts, and more treasures can be found in the museum's offerings outside these collections. All the pieces together show the rich artistic and cultural history of Portugal.
The museum showcases a plethora of sculptures by Joaquim Machado de Castro as a tribute to its namesake. 
The Last Supper sculptures are among the highlights of the museum.
Sacred Artifacts: The museum also has a wealth of religious art, including various reliquaries, crosses, altars, devotional figures, and liturgical artifacts. The area's monasteries and churches have been the primary sources for the majority of these.
Modern and Contemporary Works: The museum's collection of modern and contemporary art features pieces by a wide variety of artists from Portugal and around the world.
Practical Information
Location
Nestled in the bustling heart of Coimbra, and just a short stroll from the University of Coimbra, Machado de Castro National Museum is conveniently accessible by foot, car, or public transportation.

Operating Hours 
You can explore the museum from Tuesday to Sunday, between the hours of 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. Please note, the museum remains closed on Mondays and on certain public holidays.
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Entry Prices 
At the time of this writing, General Admission is €6.  They also offer discounted rates for students, seniors, and groups. Plus, the first Sunday of every month sees free entry for all visitors.  Be sure to check their website for updated information.
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Hot Chocolate from Heaven

11/9/2021

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If a cup of hot chocolate fell from the sky, this would certainly be a strong candidate.
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I'm staying in Coimbra, Portugal for 10 days in a cute AirBnB, researching a potential move to Portugal in early 2022.  

As I was walking to the city centre from my rental, I noticed a chocolate shop called Chocolataria Equador. A lover of chocolate, my interested was immediately piqued.

It was closed the first time I passed by.  But since it is on the side street on the way to my AirBnB it was easy to visit.
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New York's digital magazine "Prior" describes Chocolataria Ecuador as one of the best in the world in a list of eleven chocolate shops.
They offer truffles, bonbons, and chocolate bars. These make great gifts to bring home for family and friends.  
And most importantly (at least in this instant) hot chocolate.  ​
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It's thick and rich and they serve it with chocolate sticks and chocolate dusting because who doesn't need more chocolate. 

It comes in two sizes.  Of course, I opted for the larger size.  I definitely had a chocolate buzz after finishing.
Later, I learned that they also have locations in Lisbon and Porto.
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    Linda Roisum

    Traveller, chief taste-tester and food finder and retired expat living in Lisbon, Portugal.

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