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Mafra National Palace, A Hidden Gem Near Lisbon

6/16/2025

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​Nestled just 40 kilometers north of Lisbon lies one of Portugal’s most awe-inspiring landmarks: Mafra Palace. Known for its architectural grandeur and cultural richness, this UNESCO World Heritage site stands as a testament to Portugal’s royal history and opulent past. Originally commissioned by King João V in the early 18th century as a celebration of the Portuguese monarchy, the palace and convent complex combines baroque and neoclassical styles in an imposing structure that includes a basilica, convent, royal quarters, and a library with a fascinating secret. Mafra Palace is also home to one of only two libraries in the world that employs a colony of bats to help preserve its precious books—a unique conservation method that has captivated the curiosity of visitors worldwide.
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**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**
Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a fan of architecture, or simply looking for an intriguing day trip from Lisbon, Mafra Palace offers a memorable experience that combines beauty, history, and a touch of the unexpected. Here’s what you need to know to plan your visit.

​Discovering Mafra Palace: A Historical and Architectural Marvel

​Upon arrival, visitors are greeted by the grand facade of the palace, stretching over 220 meters wide and adorned with intricate carvings and statues. King João V commissioned this palace in 1717 as a promise he made if his wife, Queen Maria Ana, bore him children. Built with immense resources derived from Brazil’s gold mines, Mafra Palace became one of the grandest constructions in Europe at the time.
​The Basilica
The heart of Mafra Palace is its basilica, with its impressive twin bell towers and dome inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Stepping inside, visitors are met with stunning Italian marble floors and vibrant baroque sculptures and paintings. The basilica is a place of serene beauty and a masterpiece of baroque architecture, where light streams in through stained glass, illuminating intricate carvings and gilded details.
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​The Convent and Royal Apartments
Adjacent to the basilica, the convent and royal apartments reveal what life was like for the monks and the Portuguese royal family. The convent quarters are simple yet spacious, reflecting the monastic lifestyle, while the royal apartments contrast with luxurious furnishings and decor. Wander through rooms filled with ornate furniture, tapestries, and royal portraits that depict Portugal's rich monarchical history.
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The Library
One of the highlights of the palace is its vast library, which houses over 36,000 leather-bound books on topics ranging from theology and philosophy to science and medicine. Designed in rococo style, this library is one of the most beautiful in Europe, featuring marble floors, intricate woodwork, and long shelves filled with rare and valuable books. Among its treasures are illuminated manuscripts, first editions, and incunabula, making it a paradise for bibliophiles.
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​The Library’s Bat Guardians: A Natural Solution to a Modern Problem

Mafra Palace’s library is unique not only for its beauty and rare books but also for the way it protects its collection. The library is one of only two in the world (the other being in Coimbra) that uses bats to help preserve its books. This remarkable practice has been in place for centuries and offers a natural solution to a persistent problem: book-damaging insects.
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Each evening, a colony of small bats emerges to feast on insects, reducing the risk of damage to the library’s invaluable texts. Their presence minimizes the need for chemical treatments, making this an environmentally friendly approach to book preservation. Although the bats themselves are rarely seen during the day, traces of their nocturnal activities can be spotted, and library staff clean the area each morning. This quirky conservation method has become a point of fascination for visitors, adding a mysterious and unique aspect to Mafra’s already impressive library.

​Tips for Visiting Mafra Palace

To make the most of your visit, consider these helpful tips:
  • Best Time to Visit: Mafra Palace is open year-round, but weekdays and mornings tend to be less crowded. This will give you more time and space to appreciate the palace’s grandeur.
  • Admission Fees: While fees can vary, expect to pay a modest entrance fee. There may be discounts for students, seniors, and children, so check the official website for the most current pricing.
  • Guided Tours: Many visitors recommend joining a guided tour to gain a deeper understanding of the palace’s history, architecture, and unique aspects like the bat guardians of the library.
  • Photography: Photography is allowed in most parts of the palace, so bring a camera to capture its magnificent architecture. However, be respectful of any restricted areas where photography may not be permitted.
  • Nearby Attractions: Consider combining your visit with a trip to the charming coastal town of Ericeira, known for its surfing spots and seafood restaurants. Another nearby gem is Tapada Nacional de Mafra, a national park where you can enjoy nature trails and spot wildlife, including deer and wild boars.
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Getting to Mafra Palace from Lisbon

​Mafra Palace is only about 40 kilometers from Lisbon, making it an easy day trip. There are several ways to get there, each offering its own level of convenience and flexibility.
  1. By Car
    Renting a car provides the most flexible way to reach Mafra from Lisbon, allowing you to travel at your own pace and perhaps explore nearby attractions. The drive takes approximately 30–40 minutes via the A8 and A21 highways. Be mindful of tolls along this route, though many rental cars come with a toll pass option.
  2. By Bus
    If you prefer public transportation, you can catch a bus from Lisbon's Campo Grande station directly to Mafra. The bus trip takes roughly an hour, making it a convenient and affordable choice. Check the schedule for Linha Verde (Green Line) operated by Mafrense, which offers regular service between Lisbon and Mafra. Once you arrive at the bus terminal in Mafra, the palace is just a short walk away.
  3. Guided Tours
    Another option is to book a guided tour from Lisbon. Several companies offer day trips to Mafra Palace, which typically include transportation, an expert guide, and sometimes even lunch or additional stops at nearby attractions like the village of Ericeira. This is a great choice if you’re interested in a deeper dive into the history and significance of the palace, as well as a convenient, stress-free travel experience.

Why Mafra Palace is Worth Visiting

One of the biggest palaces in Europe, the Mafra royal has elements of both royal and monastery design; it is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Many tourists have been pleasantly delighted by this hidden gem near Lisbon. With an area of 38,000 m² and a façade of 220 meters, its sheer enormity is jaw-dropping. Just as remarkable as the palace's architectural magnificence is its rich history.

This one-of-a-kind location is a magnificent blend of a palace, monastery, and church. There are few places on Earth as stunning as its library, which occupies an entire half-wing and contains more than 36,000 volumes of historical literature. Bats, as an interesting side note, really make their home in libraries, where they ward off bugs.

​A Royal Experience Close to Lisbon

Whether you’re marveling at the ornate basilica, strolling through the tranquil convent, or exploring the library with its bat guardians, Mafra Palace provides a rich cultural experience that will captivate visitors of all ages. The palace stands not just as a historical relic but as a symbol of Portuguese ingenuity in preserving heritage. Its opulent architecture and unique conservation practices make it a truly one-of-a-kind destination.
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Easily accessible from Lisbon, Mafra Palace offers a fulfilling day trip where history, art, and nature blend seamlessly. So, when planning your itinerary in Portugal, don’t miss the chance to explore this royal gem and witness firsthand the magic of its bat-protected library. Whether you’re a fan of books, history, or architecture, Mafra Palace promises an experience you won’t forget.
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The Ultimate Lisbon Sunset Guide: Where to Watch the Sun Dip Over the City

6/13/2025

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Lisbon is a city that knows how to put on a show—especially at sunset. Whether you're strolling through its cobbled streets or perched atop one of its many hills, the golden hour here is pure magic. If you're wondering where to watch the sunset in Lisbon or seeking the best sunset view in Lisbon, this guide has got you covered.
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**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**

​Why Lisbon Sunsets Are Unforgettable

Lisbon's unique topography, with its seven hills and the expansive Tagus River, offers a plethora of vantage points to witness the sun's descent. The city's terracotta rooftops, historic landmarks, and shimmering waters create a canvas that's painted anew each evening.

​Top Spots to Watch the Sunset in Lisbon

1. Miradouro da Senhora do Monte
Perched at the highest point in central Lisbon, this viewpoint offers panoramic vistas of the city. It's a quieter spot, perfect for those seeking a serene sunset experience. From here, you can see the 25 de Abril Bridge, the Tagus River, and the city's historic neighborhoods bathed in golden light.
Nearby attractions: Graça Church, Convento da Graça
How to get there: Take Tram 28 to Graça or a tuk-tuk from downtown Lisbon.
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2. Miradouro de Santa Catarina
A favorite among locals and tourists alike, this spot boasts a lively atmosphere with street musicians and vendors. Overlooking the river and the bridge, it's an ideal place to relax with a drink and enjoy the sunset's hues.
Nearby attractions: Time Out Market, Bica Funicular, Bairro Alto nightlife
How to get there: Walk uphill from Cais do Sodré or take the Elevador da Bica.
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3. Miradouro da Graça
Located near the Graça Church, this viewpoint offers a blend of history and beauty. With a small kiosk nearby, it's a great place to sip on a beverage while watching the city transition from day to night.
Nearby attractions: National Pantheon, Alfama, Feira da Ladra flea market
How to get there: Take Tram 28 or bus 734 to Graça.
4. Ribeira das Naus
This riverside promenade is perfect for those who prefer to be closer to the water. With grassy areas and steps leading down to the river, it's a popular spot for picnics and leisurely sunset watching.
Nearby attractions: Praça do Comércio, Rua Augusta Arch, Lisbon Story Centre
How to get there: Easily walkable from Baixa-Chiado or Cais do Sodré metro stations.
5. Parque Eduardo VII
For a more elevated view, head to this expansive park. From its highest point, you can see straight down to the river, with the city's skyline framing the sunset.
Nearby attractions: Marquês de Pombal Square, El Corte Inglés, Gulbenkian Museum
How to get there: Take the metro to Parque or São Sebastião stations.
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​Sunset Cruises on the Tagus River

For a unique perspective, consider taking a sunset cruise on the Tagus River. These cruises offer unparalleled views of Lisbon's landmarks, including the Belém Tower and the 25 de Abril Bridge, all illuminated by the setting sun. Many cruises also provide drinks and snacks, making for a delightful evening on the water.
Departure points: Usually from Cais do Sodré, Belém, or Alcântara docks
Options: Traditional sailing boats, catamarans, or modern yachts
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Hidden or Underrated Sunset Spots in Lisbon

1. Miradouro de Santo Amaro
Tucked away in Alcântara, this lesser-known viewpoint offers fantastic views of the 25 de Abril Bridge and the river. It's usually quiet, giving it a peaceful, local vibe.
Nearby: Capela de Santo Amaro, LX Factory
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2. Jardim do Torel
This charming garden sits in a residential area and feels like a secret retreat. With shaded benches and fewer crowds, it's perfect for a romantic evening.
Nearby: Campo Mártires da Pátria, Avenida da Liberdade
3. Miradouro do Monte Agudo
A hidden gem in the Arroios neighborhood, this viewpoint offers a unique angle of the city and often has live music at sunset.
Nearby: Anjos, Penha de França
4. Tapada das Necessidades
A sprawling and slightly wild park that’s largely undiscovered by tourists. Climb to its upper levels for a gorgeous sunset framed by trees and old structures.
Nearby: Palácio das Necessidades, Alcântara
5. São Jorge Castle
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Sunset from São Jorge Castle
Not just a historical treasure, the castle's ramparts offer some of the most dramatic sunset views in Lisbon, especially with the Alfama rooftops and Tagus River in sight.
Nearby: Lisbon Cathedral, Alfama district
Rua Augusta Arch (Arco da Rua Augusta)
Take the elevator and then climb to the top of this triumphal arch in downtown Lisbon for a sunset view that includes the city grid, Praça do Comércio, and the river. At the time of this writing, cost is €4.50
Nearby: Baixa, Praça do Comércio
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Top of Amoreiras Shopping Center
​The panoramic viewing deck at the top of this mall is one of Lisbon's best-kept secrets. Fewer crowds and sweeping views make this a stunning, underrated sunset spot. At the time of this writing, cost is €5.00
Nearby: Amoreiras Garden, Rato metro station
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​Tips for Capturing the Perfect Sunset Photo

  • Arrive Early: Popular spots can get crowded, so get there ahead of time to secure a good spot.
  • Check the Weather: Clear skies make for the best sunsets.
  • Bring a Tripod: For those looking to capture long-exposure shots, a tripod is essential.
  • Use the Right Settings: Lower ISO and a smaller aperture (like f/8) can help capture the vibrant colors.

Final Thoughts

Lisbon's sunsets are more than just a daily occurrence—they're an experience. Whether you're atop a hill, lounging by the river, or cruising on the Tagus, the city's golden hour is sure to leave a lasting impression. So, grab your camera, pick a spot, and let Lisbon's sunset enchant you.
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Watermelon Feta Salad

6/6/2025

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​When the summer sun is shining bright and you’re craving something refreshing, light, and vibrant, nothing hits the spot quite like a Watermelon Feta Salad. Juicy, sweet watermelon meets tangy feta, crisp greens, zesty lime, and a pop of fresh herbs for a dish that’s as beautiful as it is delicious. Whether you’re hosting a backyard barbecue, lounging poolside, or just looking for a quick, no-fuss meal, this salad is a perfect pick.
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**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**
A Feast for the Eyes (and Taste Buds!)
Just look at that plate! Big, bold triangles of watermelon rest atop a bed of mixed greens—think peppery arugula, tender baby spinach, and whatever fresh greens you love. Crumbles of creamy feta cheese bring a salty contrast to the sweet melon, while slivers of red onion add just the right amount of bite. Fresh cilantro (or mint if you prefer) and wedges of lime complete the medley, giving it a zesty, herbaceous twist.
Why It Works
​This salad is all about balance:
  • Sweet and salty
  • Crisp and creamy
  • Refreshing and satisfying
Each bite delivers a contrast that keeps your palate engaged and wanting more. Plus, it's incredibly hydrating, thanks to watermelon’s high water content—perfect for staying cool on hot days.
Watermelon Feta Salad

Ingredients:
4-5 thick wedges of ripe watermelon
2 cups baby arugula or mixed greens
1/4 cup thinly sliced red onion
1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
A handful of fresh cilantro or mint leaves, chopped
Lime wedges for garnish and drizzling
A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil (optional)
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
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Instructions:
  1. Start with a generous bed of greens on your serving platter.
  2. Layer on the watermelon wedges. Triangles make for a fun and rustic presentation!
  3. Scatter the red onion slices and feta crumbles over the top.
  4. Sprinkle with chopped herbs and a few cracks of black pepper.
  5. Garnish with lime wedges. Just before serving, give everything a gentle squeeze of lime juice for a bright finish.
  6. Optional: Drizzle with a touch of olive oil for extra richness.
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Variations
​Want to switch things up? Try adding:
Avocado slices for creaminess
Toasted pine nuts or pumpkin seeds for crunch
A balsamic glaze drizzle for a sweet-tart kick
Cucumbers for extra crunch and coolness
grilled shrimp or chicken
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10 Best Places to See Blooming Jacaranda Trees in Lisbon

6/5/2025

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Every late spring, Lisbon transforms into a dreamlike canvas of purple blossoms as Jacaranda trees burst into bloom. Discover the 10 best places to see Jacaranda trees in bloom.
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**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**
The vivid blue-violet flowers of the Jacaranda tree create a striking contrast against the city’s cobblestones, terracotta rooftops, and tiled façades—turning ordinary strolls into unforgettable moments.

But these beautiful trees aren’t native to Portugal. The story of how they got here is just as fascinating as the blooms themselves.

A Royal Botanical Journey

The Jacaranda mimosifolia, originally from South America (especially Brazil and Argentina), found its way to Lisbon in the early 19th century, thanks to Félix Avelar Brotero, a pioneering Portuguese botanist and director of the Ajuda Botanical Garden  from 1811 to 1826.

Brotero brought Jacaranda seeds to Portugal and generously offered them to anyone interested in cultivating them in the city. This was long before the Portuguese Royal Court returned from Brazil, making the tree’s arrival a significant botanical event. At the time, blue-spectrum pigments were extremely rare and prized, so the exotic Jacaranda—blooming in brilliant purple-blue hues—was considered a symbol of prestige and royal sophistication.
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When to See the Jacarandas Bloom

Lisbon’s Jacaranda season typically peaks from late May to early June, though the exact timing can vary depending on the weather. The bloom lasts for about two to three weeks, and during that time, the city becomes a soft, fragrant wonderland.
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To experience the magic, plan your visit for the final week of May or the first week of June. 
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 The 10 Best Places to See Jacaranda Trees in Lisbon

Whether you're hunting for the perfect photo or simply want to wander beneath violet-colored canopies, here are 10 of the most beautiful places in Lisbon to enjoy the blooming Jacarandas:
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1. Eduardo VII Park
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Perched above the city center, this vast park offers sweeping views of Lisbon and the Tagus River. In late spring, the green slopes are splashed with the unmistakable purple of Jacaranda trees, making it a favorite spot for picnics and peaceful walks.
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2. Largo do Rato
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This quiet square offers a pocket of tranquility in the middle of the city. The Jacarandas here provide gentle shade and a burst of seasonal color, perfect for sitting on a bench and enjoying the slower pace of Lisbon life.
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3. Largo do Carmo
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One of Lisbon’s most picturesque squares, Largo do Carmo combines history and beauty. The ruins of the Carmo Convent provide a dramatic backdrop to the delicate Jacaranda blossoms, adding a poetic, almost cinematic, charm to the setting.
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4. Rossio Square
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Lisbon’s buzzing central square takes on a softer tone in spring as Jacarandas line the perimeter. Whether you’re sipping coffee at an outdoor café or watching street performers, the purple blooms make Rossio even more magical.
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5. Campo de Santa Clara
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Located in the historic Alfama district, this large green space is home to the famous Feira da Ladra flea market. During bloom season, the Jacarandas provide a colorful canopy over the market and the surrounding walkways.
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6. Jardim Dom Luís (D. Luís Garden)
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Nestled near Cais do Sodré and TimeOut Market, this charming garden features a collection of Jacarandas that explode with color each spring. It’s a peaceful place to take a break and watch Lisbon locals go about their day under the soft shade of the blossoms.
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7. Avenida Dom Carlos I
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Leading toward the National Assembly, this avenue becomes a true floral tunnel in late May. The Jacarandas arch overhead, creating a striking corridor of color that’s perfect for photos or a leisurely stroll.
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Photo Credit - Ana Luísa Alvim | CML
8. Praça de Santos (Santos Square)
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Tucked into one of Lisbon’s most charming neighborhoods, Santos Square becomes a peaceful urban oasis during Jacaranda season. The flowers contrast beautifully with the neighborhood’s pastel buildings and tilework.
9. Avenida 24 de Julho
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Running along the riverside, this long avenue offers a breathtaking floral display in late spring. The Jacarandas stretch for several kilometers, casting lacy shadows over joggers, cyclists, and pedestrians enjoying the view of the Tagus.
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10. Avenida da Torre de Belém
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This iconic area is known for its historic monuments—including Belém Tower and the Jerónimos Monastery—but it’s also a wonderful place to spot Jacarandas. The combination of historic architecture and seasonal blooms makes for an unforgettable Lisbon moment.
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Bonus Tip

​For photographers and flower-lovers, early mornings are best—when the sunlight is soft and the streets are quiet. And don't forget to look down: the fallen petals create a purple carpet that adds a touch of magic to every step.
​Jacaranda season is brief, but it leaves a lasting impression. Whether you’re a local savoring the change of seasons or a visitor discovering Lisbon for the first time, the bloom transforms the city into a purple-hued paradise—both grounded in history and alive with color.
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Honoring the Hands That Built Lisbon: Monument to the Calceteiro

6/4/2025

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​Discover the Monument to the Calceteiro in Lisbon—a tribute to the artisans behind the city’s iconic mosaic sidewalks. A hidden gem near Rossio Station.
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**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**
While strolling the charming streets of Lisbon, it's easy to get caught up in the grand architecture, pastel-colored buildings, and sweeping views of the Tagus River. But don’t forget to look down — some of the city's most remarkable artistry is quite literally under your feet.

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I recently discovered a small but powerful tribute just outside the Rossio Train Station, tucked near the Levi's store in Praça Dom João da Câmara. It’s a bronze statue dedicated to the unsung heroes of Lisbon’s beauty — the calceteiros, or stone pavers, who painstakingly lay the city’s distinctive mosaic sidewalks known as calçada portuguesa.

What Is Calçada Portuguesa?

​If you’ve wandered through Lisbon — or any historic Portuguese city — you’ve likely noticed the intricate black-and-white stone patterns that cover the sidewalks and plazas. These patterns aren’t just decoration; they are a traditional art form crafted from small pieces of limestone and basalt. Designs range from simple waves and geometric forms to elaborate ships, flowers, and historical scenes.
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But behind every swirl and symbol is a person — often working kneeling for hours, hammering stones into place, one by one, over a bed of sand.

​The Monument: A Quiet Tribute with a Strong Message

The Monumento ao Calceteiro near Rossio is a subtle but poignant installation. It features two bronze figures:
  • One worker kneeling as he sets a stone
  • Another standing beside him, possibly supervising or preparing the next piece
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At their feet, a beautifully embedded mosaic depicts Lisbon’s coat of arms — a ship flanked by ravens — sailing over stylized waves made from contrasting black and white stones. This symbolic design serves as a reminder that these stunning works of street art don’t just appear — they’re carved from sweat, skill, and tradition.

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Why It Matters

In recent years, the number of trained calceteiros has dwindled, as the job is physically demanding and fewer young people are entering the trade. While Lisbon is filled with grand monuments to kings and explorers, this modest statue is perhaps one of the city’s most meaningful — a recognition of the craftsmen who shaped the soul of the city.
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Without them, the romantic strolls through Baixa or the picture-perfect photo ops in Alfama wouldn’t be quite the same.

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    Linda Roisum

    Traveller, chief taste-tester and food finder and retired expat living in Lisbon, Portugal.

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