Category: Portugal

Mafra National Palace, A Hidden Gem Near Lisbon

6/16/2025

Nestled just 40 kilometers north of Lisbon lies one of Portugal’s most awe-inspiring landmarks: Mafra Palace. Known for its architectural grandeur and cultural richness, this UNESCO World Heritage site stands as a testament to Portugal’s royal history and opulent past. Originally commissioned by King João V in the early 18th century as a celebration of the Portuguese monarchy, the palace and convent complex combines baroque and neoclassical styles in an imposing structure that includes a basilica, convent, royal quarters, and a library with a fascinating secret. Mafra Palace is also home to one of only two libraries in the world that employs a colony of bats to help preserve its precious books—a unique conservation method that has captivated the curiosity of visitors worldwide.

**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**

Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a fan of architecture, or simply looking for an intriguing day trip from Lisbon, Mafra Palace offers a memorable experience that combines beauty, history, and a touch of the unexpected. Here’s what you need to know to plan your visit.

Discovering Mafra Palace: A Historical and Architectural Marvel

Upon arrival, visitors are greeted by the grand facade of the palace, stretching over 220 meters wide and adorned with intricate carvings and statues. King João V commissioned this palace in 1717 as a promise he made if his wife, Queen Maria Ana, bore him children. Built with immense resources derived from Brazil’s gold mines, Mafra Palace became one of the grandest constructions in Europe at the time.

The Basilica
The heart of Mafra Palace is its basilica, with its impressive twin bell towers and dome inspired by St. Peter’s Basilica in Rome. Stepping inside, visitors are met with stunning Italian marble floors and vibrant baroque sculptures and paintings. The basilica is a place of serene beauty and a masterpiece of baroque architecture, where light streams in through stained glass, illuminating intricate carvings and gilded details.

The Convent and Royal Apartments
Adjacent to the basilica, the convent and royal apartments reveal what life was like for the monks and the Portuguese royal family. The convent quarters are simple yet spacious, reflecting the monastic lifestyle, while the royal apartments contrast with luxurious furnishings and decor. Wander through rooms filled with ornate furniture, tapestries, and royal portraits that depict Portugal's rich monarchical history.

The Library
One of the highlights of the palace is its vast library, which houses over 36,000 leather-bound books on topics ranging from theology and philosophy to science and medicine. Designed in rococo style, this library is one of the most beautiful in Europe, featuring marble floors, intricate woodwork, and long shelves filled with rare and valuable books. Among its treasures are illuminated manuscripts, first editions, and incunabula, making it a paradise for bibliophiles.

The Library’s Bat Guardians: A Natural Solution to a Modern Problem

Mafra Palace’s library is unique not only for its beauty and rare books but also for the way it protects its collection. The library is one of only two in the world (the other being in Coimbra) that uses bats to help preserve its books. This remarkable practice has been in place for centuries and offers a natural solution to a persistent problem: book-damaging insects.

Each evening, a colony of small bats emerges to feast on insects, reducing the risk of damage to the library’s invaluable texts. Their presence minimizes the need for chemical treatments, making this an environmentally friendly approach to book preservation. Although the bats themselves are rarely seen during the day, traces of their nocturnal activities can be spotted, and library staff clean the area each morning. This quirky conservation method has become a point of fascination for visitors, adding a mysterious and unique aspect to Mafra’s already impressive library.

Tips for Visiting Mafra Palace

To make the most of your visit, consider these helpful tips:

Best Time to Visit: Mafra Palace is open year-round, but weekdays and mornings tend to be less crowded. This will give you more time and space to appreciate the palace’s grandeur.
Admission Fees: While fees can vary, expect to pay a modest entrance fee. There may be discounts for students, seniors, and children, so check the official website for the most current pricing.
Guided Tours: Many visitors recommend joining a guided tour to gain a deeper understanding of the palace’s history, architecture, and unique aspects like the bat guardians of the library.
Photography: Photography is allowed in most parts of the palace, so bring a camera to capture its magnificent architecture. However, be respectful of any restricted areas where photography may not be permitted.
Nearby Attractions: Consider combining your visit with a trip to the charming coastal town of Ericeira, known for its surfing spots and seafood restaurants. Another nearby gem is Tapada Nacional de Mafra, a national park where you can enjoy nature trails and spot wildlife, including deer and wild boars.

Getting to Mafra Palace from Lisbon

Mafra Palace is only about 40 kilometers from Lisbon, making it an easy day trip. There are several ways to get there, each offering its own level of convenience and flexibility.

By Car
Renting a car provides the most flexible way to reach Mafra from Lisbon, allowing you to travel at your own pace and perhaps explore nearby attractions. The drive takes approximately 30–40 minutes via the A8 and A21 highways. Be mindful of tolls along this route, though many rental cars come with a toll pass option.
By Bus
If you prefer public transportation, you can catch a bus from Lisbon's Campo Grande station directly to Mafra. The bus trip takes roughly an hour, making it a convenient and affordable choice. Check the schedule for Linha Verde (Green Line) operated by Mafrense, which offers regular service between Lisbon and Mafra. Once you arrive at the bus terminal in Mafra, the palace is just a short walk away.
Guided Tours
Another option is to book a guided tour from Lisbon. Several companies offer day trips to Mafra Palace, which typically include transportation, an expert guide, and sometimes even lunch or additional stops at nearby attractions like the village of Ericeira. This is a great choice if you’re interested in a deeper dive into the history and significance of the palace, as well as a convenient, stress-free travel experience.

Why Mafra Palace is Worth Visiting

One of the biggest palaces in Europe, the Mafra royal has elements of both royal and monastery design; it is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Many tourists have been pleasantly delighted by this hidden gem near Lisbon. With an area of 38,000 m² and a façade of 220 meters, its sheer enormity is jaw-dropping. Just as remarkable as the palace's architectural magnificence is its rich history.

This one-of-a-kind location is a magnificent blend of a palace, monastery, and church. There are few places on Earth as stunning as its library, which occupies an entire half-wing and contains more than 36,000 volumes of historical literature. Bats, as an interesting side note, really make their home in libraries, where they ward off bugs.

A Royal Experience Close to Lisbon

Whether you’re marveling at the ornate basilica, strolling through the tranquil convent, or exploring the library with its bat guardians, Mafra Palace provides a rich cultural experience that will captivate visitors of all ages. The palace stands not just as a historical relic but as a symbol of Portuguese ingenuity in preserving heritage. Its opulent architecture and unique conservation practices make it a truly one-of-a-kind destination.

Easily accessible from Lisbon, Mafra Palace offers a fulfilling day trip where history, art, and nature blend seamlessly. So, when planning your itinerary in Portugal, don’t miss the chance to explore this royal gem and witness firsthand the magic of its bat-protected library. Whether you’re a fan of books, history, or architecture, Mafra Palace promises an experience you won’t forget.

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10 Best Places to See Blooming Jacaranda Trees in Lisbon

6/5/2025

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Every late spring, Lisbon transforms into a dreamlike canvas of purple blossoms as Jacaranda trees burst into bloom. Discover the 10 best places to see Jacaranda trees in bloom.

**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**

The vivid blue-violet flowers of the Jacaranda tree create a striking contrast against the city’s cobblestones, terracotta rooftops, and tiled façades—turning ordinary strolls into unforgettable moments.

But these beautiful trees aren’t native to Portugal. The story of how they got here is just as fascinating as the blooms themselves.

A Royal Botanical Journey

The Jacaranda mimosifolia, originally from South America (especially Brazil and Argentina), found its way to Lisbon in the early 19th century, thanks to Félix Avelar Brotero, a pioneering Portuguese botanist and director of the Ajuda Botanical Garden from 1811 to 1826.

Brotero brought Jacaranda seeds to Portugal and generously offered them to anyone interested in cultivating them in the city. This was long before the Portuguese Royal Court returned from Brazil, making the tree’s arrival a significant botanical event. At the time, blue-spectrum pigments were extremely rare and prized, so the exotic Jacaranda—blooming in brilliant purple-blue hues—was considered a symbol of prestige and royal sophistication.

When to See the Jacarandas Bloom

Lisbon’s Jacaranda season typically peaks from late May to early June, though the exact timing can vary depending on the weather. The bloom lasts for about two to three weeks, and during that time, the city becomes a soft, fragrant wonderland.

To experience the magic, plan your visit for the final week of May or the first week of June.

The 10 Best Places to See Jacaranda Trees in Lisbon

Whether you're hunting for the perfect photo or simply want to wander beneath violet-colored canopies, here are 10 of the most beautiful places in Lisbon to enjoy the blooming Jacarandas:

1. Eduardo VII Park
Perched above the city center, this vast park offers sweeping views of Lisbon and the Tagus River. In late spring, the green slopes are splashed with the unmistakable purple of Jacaranda trees, making it a favorite spot for picnics and peaceful walks.

2. Largo do Rato
This quiet square offers a pocket of tranquility in the middle of the city. The Jacarandas here provide gentle shade and a burst of seasonal color, perfect for sitting on a bench and enjoying the slower pace of Lisbon life.

3. Largo do Carmo
One of Lisbon’s most picturesque squares, Largo do Carmo combines history and beauty. The ruins of the Carmo Convent provide a dramatic backdrop to the delicate Jacaranda blossoms, adding a poetic, almost cinematic, charm to the setting.

4. Rossio Square
Lisbon’s buzzing central square takes on a softer tone in spring as Jacarandas line the perimeter. Whether you’re sipping coffee at an outdoor café or watching street performers, the purple blooms make Rossio even more magical.

5. Campo de Santa Clara
Located in the historic Alfama district, this large green space is home to the famous Feira da Ladra flea market. During bloom season, the Jacarandas provide a colorful canopy over the market and the surrounding walkways.

6. Jardim Dom Luís (D. Luís Garden)
Nestled near Cais do Sodré and TimeOut Market, this charming garden features a collection of Jacarandas that explode with color each spring. It’s a peaceful place to take a break and watch Lisbon locals go about their day under the soft shade of the blossoms.

7. Avenida Dom Carlos I
Leading toward the National Assembly, this avenue becomes a true floral tunnel in late May. The Jacarandas arch overhead, creating a striking corridor of color that’s perfect for photos or a leisurely stroll.

Photo Credit - Ana Luísa Alvim | CML

8. Praça de Santos (Santos Square)
Tucked into one of Lisbon’s most charming neighborhoods, Santos Square becomes a peaceful urban oasis during Jacaranda season. The flowers contrast beautifully with the neighborhood’s pastel buildings and tilework.

9. Avenida 24 de Julho
Running along the riverside, this long avenue offers a breathtaking floral display in late spring. The Jacarandas stretch for several kilometers, casting lacy shadows over joggers, cyclists, and pedestrians enjoying the view of the Tagus.

10. Avenida da Torre de Belém
This iconic area is known for its historic monuments—including Belém Tower and the Jerónimos Monastery—but it’s also a wonderful place to spot Jacarandas. The combination of historic architecture and seasonal blooms makes for an unforgettable Lisbon moment.

Bonus Tip

For photographers and flower-lovers, early mornings are best—when the sunlight is soft and the streets are quiet. And don't forget to look down: the fallen petals create a purple carpet that adds a touch of magic to every step.

Jacaranda season is brief, but it leaves a lasting impression. Whether you’re a local savoring the change of seasons or a visitor discovering Lisbon for the first time, the bloom transforms the city into a purple-hued paradise—both grounded in history and alive with color.

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Honoring the Hands That Built Lisbon: Monument to the Calceteiro

6/4/2025

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Discover the Monument to the Calceteiro in Lisbon—a tribute to the artisans behind the city’s iconic mosaic sidewalks. A hidden gem near Rossio Station.

**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**

While strolling the charming streets of Lisbon, it's easy to get caught up in the grand architecture, pastel-colored buildings, and sweeping views of the Tagus River. But don’t forget to look down — some of the city's most remarkable artistry is quite literally under your feet.

I recently discovered a small but powerful tribute just outside the Rossio Train Station, tucked near the Levi's store in Praça Dom João da Câmara. It’s a bronze statue dedicated to the unsung heroes of Lisbon’s beauty — the calceteiros, or stone pavers, who painstakingly lay the city’s distinctive mosaic sidewalks known as calçada portuguesa.

What Is Calçada Portuguesa?

If you’ve wandered through Lisbon — or any historic Portuguese city — you’ve likely noticed the intricate black-and-white stone patterns that cover the sidewalks and plazas. These patterns aren’t just decoration; they are a traditional art form crafted from small pieces of limestone and basalt. Designs range from simple waves and geometric forms to elaborate ships, flowers, and historical scenes.

But behind every swirl and symbol is a person — often working kneeling for hours, hammering stones into place, one by one, over a bed of sand.

The Monument: A Quiet Tribute with a Strong Message

The Monumento ao Calceteiro near Rossio is a subtle but poignant installation. It features two bronze figures:

One worker kneeling as he sets a stone
Another standing beside him, possibly supervising or preparing the next piece

At their feet, a beautifully embedded mosaic depicts Lisbon’s coat of arms — a ship flanked by ravens — sailing over stylized waves made from contrasting black and white stones. This symbolic design serves as a reminder that these stunning works of street art don’t just appear — they’re carved from sweat, skill, and tradition.

Why It Matters

In recent years, the number of trained calceteiros has dwindled, as the job is physically demanding and fewer young people are entering the trade. While Lisbon is filled with grand monuments to kings and explorers, this modest statue is perhaps one of the city’s most meaningful — a recognition of the craftsmen who shaped the soul of the city.

Without them, the romantic strolls through Baixa or the picture-perfect photo ops in Alfama wouldn’t be quite the same.

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A Guide to Visiting Castles of Sintra

4/15/2025

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Nestled in the lush hills just a short train ride from Lisbon, Sintra is a treasure trove of fairy-tale castles, palaces, and gardens. This UNESCO World Heritage site offers a rich tapestry of history, architecture, and natural beauty, making it a must-visit for anyone traveling to Portugal. Here’s a guide to experiencing the mesmerizing castles of Sintra.

**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**

Pena Palace

Perched high on a hill, Pena Palace is one of Portugal’s most iconic landmarks. Its colorful, whimsical architecture blends Romanticist styles with Moorish and Manueline influences, making it a true masterpiece.

Explore vibrant facades, intricate tile work, and breathtaking panoramic views of the Atlantic coastline. Don’t miss the Arab Room and the richly decorated rooms where Portuguese royalty once resided.

Tips: Arrive early in the morning or later in the day to avoid crowds, and wear comfortable shoes, as there’s a bit of an uphill trek from the entrance to the palace.

Moorish Castle (Castelo dos Mouros)

The Moorish Castle is a medieval fortress set amidst the lush forests of the Sintra Mountains, part of the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park. It dates back to the 8th and 9th centuries when it was constructed by the Moors to oversee the town of Sintra, but it fell into disrepair after the Christian conquest in the 12th century.

Photo Credit: Isabel de Almeida (https://www.instagram.com/isa__m_)

Tips: This site involves a lot of climbing, so prepare for a bit of exercise. Visit during clear weather for optimal views.

Quinta da Regaleira

A true playground for the imagination, Quinta da Regaleira is an ornate estate filled with gardens, secret passages, and the famous Initiation Well. Built in the 20th century, it’s a mix of Gothic, Egyptian, Moorish, and Renaissance styles.

Explore the enchanting grounds, including the mysterious Initiation Well, a spiral staircase descending into the earth. The palace interiors also showcase intricate designs and fascinating details.

Tips: Set aside a few hours to wander the gardens and discover hidden grottos, statues, and secret tunnels.

Monserrate Palace

Often overshadowed by Pena and Quinta da Regaleira, Monserrate Palace is a stunning example of Romantic architecture with Moorish and Indian influences. The palace’s beauty lies in its intricate details and the exotic gardens surrounding it.

Marvel at the ornate Gothic arches, domes, and opulent rooms. The gardens here feature plants from all over the world, including Mexico, Japan, and Australia.

Tips: Monserrate tends to be less crowded, offering a peaceful experience for those looking to escape the more popular sites.

National Palace of Sintra (Palácio Nacional de Sintra)

Located in the heart of Sintra, this medieval palace is known for its distinctive twin chimneys. Serving as a royal residence for over 500 years, it’s a fascinating blend of Gothic, Manueline, and Moorish architecture.

Explore grand rooms adorned with tiles, the breathtaking Swan Room, and the famous Magpie Room with its charming ceiling artwork.

Swan Room

Magpie Room

Tips: As it’s centrally located, this palace is an excellent choice to start or end your day. Take time to explore Sintra’s historic town center afterward.

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Practical Tips for Visiting Sintra’s Castles

Getting There: Take a 40-minute train ride from Lisbon’s Rossio Station to Sintra. Trains run frequently and are a comfortable way to avoid driving.

Transport in Sintra: Sintra’s sites are spread out, so use local buses or tuk-tuks to get around. Alternatively, consider hiking if you’re up for a challenge and want to enjoy the scenic views.

Best Time to Visit: Spring and early fall offer milder weather and fewer crowds. Summer can be quite busy, so arriving early or visiting in the late afternoon can help avoid peak times.

Sintra’s castles are more than just monuments. They are gateways into Portugal’s rich and diverse history, each with its own story to tell.

With this guide, you’re ready to dive into the enchanting world of Sintra and make the most of your visit to this magical town.

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Joanine Library: A Historical Gem in Coimbra, Portugal

11/9/2024

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Located on the grounds of the University of Coimbra, one of Portugal’s most prestigious educational institutions, the Joanine Library is a marvel that transports visitors back in time. This baroque masterpiece is more than just a place to house books—it's a living testament to the intellectual and artistic pursuits of the past, making it one of the most extraordinary libraries in Europe.

**This post may contain affiliate links. I receive a small amount of compensation when you purchase from my links which help to keep this blog running.**

Historical Gem

The Joanine Library, or Biblioteca Joanina, was commissioned by King João V in 1717 during a period when Portugal was flourishing from its wealth brought by gold and diamonds from Brazil. Named in honor of the king, the library stands as a symbol of his support for the arts and sciences. The library officially opened its doors in 1728, and since then, it has become a beacon of knowledge, holding over 60,000 volumes that span centuries of human thought and achievement.

One of the most remarkable features of the Joanine Library is its connection to the Age of Enlightenment. The library’s collections emphasize the era's values of intellectual expansion, scientific exploration, and artistic excellence, making it an integral piece of European cultural history.

Architectural Beauty

The Joanine Library is as much an architectural wonder as it is a literary one. Its elaborate baroque design is breathtaking, with gilded woodwork, intricate frescoes, and soaring ceilings that inspire awe. The library is divided into three grand rooms, each adorned with painted ceilings and walls lined with exquisitely carved tropical wood bookshelves.

The design of the library itself is a reflection of the high regard for knowledge during the 18th century. The gilded detailing, combined with the rich colors and masterful use of natural light, creates an atmosphere of reverence—reminding visitors that they are in the presence of something sacred: the wisdom of the ages. Above the shelves, portraits of great thinkers and scholars look down, as if overseeing the learning and research that have taken place here for centuries.

Rare Collections

Within these ornately designed walls lies one of the most significant collections of rare and ancient books in the world. The Joanine Library houses works dating from the 16th to the 18th centuries, covering a wide range of subjects from law and medicine to theology and geography.

Among the treasures held in the Joanine Library are first editions of scientific works that revolutionized the fields of astronomy and natural sciences, rare manuscripts that reflect Portugal's rich maritime history, and volumes of classical literature. These collections serve as a window into the scholarly pursuits of the past and stand as a testament to the enduring value of knowledge.

Special care is taken to preserve these priceless books, ensuring that future generations will continue to have access to them. Each book is treated with meticulous care to prevent damage from light, temperature fluctuations, and the passage of time.

Photo Courtesy of University of Coimbra

Bat Guardians

The Joanine Library holds a unique distinction - it's one of only two libraries in the world, alongside the Mafra Palace Library - is its unlikely guardians: bats. Yes, you read that right, bats.

Mafra Palace Library

Every evening, a colony of bats emerges from their roosts within the library’s ceiling, flying through the grand halls. But far from being pests, these bats play a crucial role in preserving the library's precious books.

The bats act as natural pest control, feasting on the insects that could otherwise damage the ancient manuscripts. To accommodate their nocturnal activities, the library’s caretakers cover the tables with protective leather sheets every night, ensuring that no droppings sully the reading surfaces.

While the presence of bats may seem unusual, it highlights the deep care and unique methods that have been adopted to safeguard the library’s collections. These tiny winged creatures have been faithfully performing their duties for generations, adding an unexpected layer to the Joanine Library's already rich history.

Visiting the Joanine Library is a must for anyone traveling to Coimbra. The library is part of the university's general ticket, which grants access to several historic sites on campus. Tickets typically cost around €13-18 for adults, with discounts available for students, seniors, and children. It's recommended to book tickets in advance, especially during the peak tourist season, as the library limits the number of visitors to preserve its delicate environment. Guided tours are also available, offering a deeper insight into the library's history and architecture. Be sure to check the university's website for the most up-to-date information on opening hours and ticket prices before planning your visit.

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<<Previous

Mafra National Palace, A Hidden Gem Near Lisbon

Discovering Mafra Palace: A Historical and Architectural Marvel

The Library’s Bat Guardians: A Natural Solution to a Modern Problem

Tips for Visiting Mafra Palace

Getting to Mafra Palace from Lisbon

Why Mafra Palace is Worth Visiting

A Royal Experience Close to Lisbon

10 Best Places to See Blooming Jacaranda Trees in Lisbon

A Royal Botanical Journey

When to See the Jacarandas Bloom

The 10 Best Places to See Jacaranda Trees in Lisbon

Bonus Tip

Honoring the Hands That Built Lisbon: Monument to the Calceteiro

What Is Calçada Portuguesa?

The Monument: A Quiet Tribute with a Strong Message

Why It Matters

A Guide to Visiting Castles of Sintra

Pena Palace

Moorish Castle (Castelo dos Mouros)

Quinta da Regaleira

Monserrate Palace

National Palace of Sintra (Palácio Nacional de Sintra)

Practical Tips for Visiting Sintra’s Castles

Joanine Library: A Historical Gem in Coimbra, Portugal

Historical Gem

Architectural Beauty

Rare Collections

Bat Guardians

Linda Roisum

Archives

Categories

Mafra National Palace, A Hidden Gem Near Lisbon

​Discovering Mafra Palace: A Historical and Architectural Marvel

​The Library’s Bat Guardians: A Natural Solution to a Modern Problem

​Tips for Visiting Mafra Palace

Getting to Mafra Palace from Lisbon

Why Mafra Palace is Worth Visiting

​A Royal Experience Close to Lisbon

10 Best Places to See Blooming Jacaranda Trees in Lisbon

A Royal Botanical Journey

When to See the Jacarandas Bloom

The 10 Best Places to See Jacaranda Trees in Lisbon

Bonus Tip

Honoring the Hands That Built Lisbon: Monument to the Calceteiro

What Is Calçada Portuguesa?

​The Monument: A Quiet Tribute with a Strong Message

Why It Matters

A Guide to Visiting Castles of Sintra

Pena Palace

Moorish Castle (Castelo dos Mouros)

​Quinta da Regaleira

​Monserrate Palace

National Palace of Sintra (Palácio Nacional de Sintra)

​Practical Tips for Visiting Sintra’s Castles

Joanine Library: A Historical Gem in Coimbra, Portugal

Historical Gem

Architectural Beauty

Rare Collections

Bat Guardians

Linda Roisum

Archives

Categories

Discovering Mafra Palace: A Historical and Architectural Marvel

The Library’s Bat Guardians: A Natural Solution to a Modern Problem

Tips for Visiting Mafra Palace

A Royal Experience Close to Lisbon

The Monument: A Quiet Tribute with a Strong Message

Quinta da Regaleira

Monserrate Palace

Practical Tips for Visiting Sintra’s Castles